The First Floor

As any flâneur will tell you, keeping your eyes at street level is a big mistake. Walking through Vienna's Innere Stadt today I was impressed, once more, by the sheer variety of architectural styles on offer in the city. Late 18th century and Biedermeier dominates, titivating former medieval streets, while the Gründerzeit really makes its mark on the Graben, Kohlmarkt and Kärtner Strasse. And, of course, there's a lot of Jugendstil on offer too, gilding and curlicuing what Historicism hasn't already decorated. If you keep your eyes on the ground – easy in Vienna's narrow streets – you may avoid bumping into less distracted pedestrians, but you'll miss all of the architectural and historical parade. But that's true the world over. Even in lowly Bedford, my new hometown, the high street looks so much more inviting when ignore the occupants on the ground floor. London's Soho too... Life begins on the first floor.

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